Two Views of Cuba:
Photographs by Lou Jones &
Peter Kayafas
DeCordova Museum
Lincoln, Massachusetts
19 january to 17 march 2002

 

TRUQUIN cabaret
midnight to 4:30am

i picked up a handbill on the street
VAN VAN was in town
(one of the hottest afrocuban bands on the planet)
later that evening in a nightclub high above the streets of havana
we partied
heat evaporated off band members
their sweat flopped onto the scantily clad dancers
gyrating at the foot of the stage
five gorgeous groupies choreographed various routines
& lip synched all the songs
the music sweetened
latin percussion throbbed
the crowd was possessed

seers
shamans
oracles

for years i have sought an introduction to santaria
friends spirited me off to a marginal neighborhood
in the middle of the city
the kind of place you dont come back from
i shook the hand of felix
an angelic looking yoruba priest
he took me to the herbalist
showed me ways of the occult
secrets his father had taught him & now was passing
on to his young son
he tossed sacred shells & told my fortune
during my initiation a small white chicken was rubbed
all over our bodies
splattered lots of blood
tears were shed
during the live sacrifice
clouds passed in front of the sun
the room darkened
(this was worlds away from holy communion)
i dont know what to make of religions
but all this must count on the final "scorecard" of life

NEOLIBERALISMO!

two inch headlines on the newspaper GRANMA shouted
politics are still thriving in this country
propaganda is pasted on state sanctioned billboards
graffiti spraypainted on walls
opinions spoken by strangers
normally i avoid political rallies
but the rhetoric permeates the air
energizes the atmosphere
teeshirts
hand bills
noone escapes unscathed

DATELINE: havana cuba
lou jones

 

Vedado is a neighborhood in Havana. The navel of the
world...Vedado is the vortex around which the country
turns...Vedado is an indescribable feast.
-Miguel Barnet, Cuba y Cuba by Rene Burri

in this part of the world music is a requisite
in the morning as pilgrims paid homage
to the assassinated BEATLE
i started walking back from JOHN LENNON PARK in vedado
accidentally i caught a glimpse of synchronized movement
a dance school was rehearsing in a courtyard
without a single word spoken i photographed dozens of
clumsy adolescents waltzing to classical CDs
they made spanish jokes at my expense but preened
like show ponies at f/5.6
further along the malecon
loud echoes bounced off the shabby neoclassical
architecture that make havanas waterfront timeless
at first i thought it might be recorded music
but something was different
i begged someone on the street who led me up
eight flights of pitch black narrow stairways
two keyboards
electric bass
congas
drums
groupies
crammed into an eight foot square tenement
the ensemble proved worth the climb
all day i followed musical leads
but back at the hotel the woodwind quartet serenaded me
with schubert
almost midnight & my new friend was performing
on the fourth floor of the PLAZA de la REVOLUTION
salsas
cha chas
show tunes
he had just returned from a nationwide tour of the USA
but i had to return to cuba to appreciate him

DATELINE: havana cuba
lou jones

cuba images

My earliest memories of Cuba were imprinted by my mother & father. They spoke of it in hushed, reverent tones. It seemed so far away. They intended it to be a possible vacation destination. They never made it.

I grew up in an era of political turmoil: the civil rights marches, the feminist movement, Vietnam protests. I stood in the picket lines for all of them.

I started traveling to take pictures in the mid 1970's. At first I visited fairly typical countries, following a muse that exhibited little real direction. I photographed small assignments in such places as France & Sicily initially. But as time passed & I developed bigger "travel muscles," I became more adventurous & took more chances. I sought jobs exploring West Africa, Haiti & behind the Iron Curtain. Many of the cultural myths widely accepted at the time were quickly dispelled. I soon realized the political agenda of the United States, its news media & even my own family was inaccurate, inept & downright wrong. I was becoming radically "politicized." Naively I thought it possible to make changes using photography. I dreamed of traveling the world "exposing evil" with two Leicas & three lenses.

John F. Kennedy made Fidel Castro a household name. I was young & I was afraid during the Cuban Missile Crisis & I was part of the American disposition on Communism. Armed with new knowledge from my travels around the world, I was intrigued by the things I heard the "revolution" was accomplishing just a few miles off our shores.

Suddenly in 1980 there was a small window of opportunity to legally visit Cuba on an American passport. So a group of activists from New England media were able to fly directly to Havana via Miami. My job was to record the proceedings. I had no idea what to expect as I stepped off the ancient World War II airplane. Straight out of a Humphrey Bogart movie, once on Cuban soil, the romantic recollections were palpable.

The hardest thing I had to reconcile was that the Cuban people (unlike North Americans) could differentiate between Americans and American foreign policy. Our blockade for years had affected the economy & progress of the Cuban ideal & I expected resistence, maybe even animosity, to my presence on Cuban soil. My hubris was never revealed. I was immediately judged on my own merits rather than bathed in suspicions.

I found people warm & interesting & trusting. Their world-view was infinitely more sophisticated than mine. I had done a lot of research but it was woefully inadequate. As a photographer I developed the most reliable method for understanding & documenting new experiences: "f/8 and be there."

My client expected me to meet with high-ranking officials at television & radio stations & newspapers but I realized I could not take interesting pictures in dark, fluorescent-lit rooms. In order to see more of the real Cuba I had to break from my group. I was soon labeled an anarchist. (Since then I have adopted the sobriquet affectionately). Alone, I hired drivers, negotiated taxis, and rode public buses into urban neighborhoods and rural areas. I was welcomed everywhere.

Walking down the back streets all over the island, I could hear top forties rock music broadcast from Florida. Familiar pop tunes poured out of backdoors everywhere. It was surreal to have American culture as musical accompaniment to my every movement. It is also rare to have an assignment insinuate itself so deeply into your life & be aware as it is happening. Even when I made mistakes & ended up in the wrong places, the lost generations & the accidents made indelible impressions. In many out-of-the-way corners of Cuba, time stood still. Whole communities remained locked in history that existed pre Castro. Discovering them & measuring them against the advances made in medicine & education & art solidified the trip.

I have documented the civil wars in Central America, life in the Far East & followed the fall of the Berlin Wall during Perestroika. I spent six years photographing men & women on death rows all over the USA. In & amongst all the advertising & corporate photo-illustration that has shaped my career, I have made a life trying to shed "light" on the human condition. I have especially traveled to give "voice" to people who have none; to introduce peers to the disenfranchised & never allow them to forget we are surrounded by many "sins of omission" by our governments, our wealth & our own callousness.

Cuba focused my camera and vision.

cuba is the most overtly sexual country in the world
under the castro regime
people have found ways of expressing their freedom
with their bodies
lovers kiss on the streets
in the restaurants
spandex seduces as women's clothing

in the light of the sun
blond women from canada germany & the USA
while smoking cigarettes
seek out the darkest cuban boys
the ultimate romantic fantasy
at night balding translucent men of means
traveling on special tours from all over the world
frequenting all the clubs & cafes
walk around with every shade of havana woman
different from the men the women lust after the adulation
but the men smoke cigars
everything in this country is forbidden
thats why were here

dateline: havana cuba
lou jones

 

in cuba time is measured by rainfall
-eliseo alberto

on caribbean islands movement doesnt slow down
but everybodys balcony becomes a haven in the storm
people make patterns huddled against heavy precipitation
& when it gets bad enough i queue up with them

eras are defined by each hurricane
days are numbered between rainy seasons
music played on every corner keeps time to the rain
drumming on corrugated tin roofs
in old havana the jazz clubs shelter european patrons
& ply them with atonal salsa & hand picked coffees
the tunes are titled "lluvia"
(which translates as rain in spanish)
& if you listen real hard you can shelter the syncopations
against the storm outside

dateline: havana cuba
lou jones

 

patience
when traveling to cuba you need be armed with a lot of it

as i stepped off the small prop airplane i was struck in the face with
raindrops
great measure had been taken to avoid the rainy season
theres not supposed to be precipitation in the winter
the second sense accosted was smell
acrid diesel fuels saturated the air
large russian trucks crisscrossed carefully maintained
but ancient american "classic" cars
remnants of another time
(noone seems to acknowledge the irony)
my stinging eyes
(sight is the third sense)
blur everything but cannot ignore the teeming humanity
that competes with every automobile for a piece of the roads
life moves too slow since noone surrenders the right of way
everything takes longer & creates exasperation
i dont get around to taste until late at night
rice & beans washed down with rum filled mojitos

the road to havana is long & arduous
the road back after twenty one years almost killed me

patience
its a virtue

N23 degrees 08.301' latitude
W82degrees 20.879' longitude
cuba sits on the same latitude as
egypt
india
vietnam
hawaii

lou jones

Cuba
click on an image below to view

 

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